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The Kitchen as LaboratoryReflections on the Science of Food and Cooking$
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César Vega, Job Ubbink, and Erik van der Linden

Print publication date: 2013

Print ISBN-13: 9780231153454

Published to Columbia Scholarship Online: November 2015

DOI: 10.7312/columbia/9780231153454.001.0001

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Konjac Dondurma

Konjac Dondurma

Designing a Sustainable and Stretchable “Fox Testicle” Ice Cream

(p.33) Five Konjac Dondurma
The Kitchen as Laboratory

Arielle Johnson

Kent Kirshenbaum

Anne E. Mcbride

Columbia University Press

Salep dondurma is a Turkish ice cream known for its stretchiness and chewiness. It is traditionally made with sweetened goat's milk and salep flour, a powder ground from the roots of the Orchis mascula (an orchid indigenous to Anatolia, Turkey). The roots of the plantare called salep, a name derived from the Turkish word for “fox testicle,” alluding to their appearance and putative aphrodisiac and virility-enhancing qualities. Salep dondurma literally means “fox testicle ice cream.” Today, it is nearly impossible to obtain, outside of Turkey, authentic salep flour after the Turkish government restricted its export due to reports of declining orchid populations. In response, researchers tested konjac flour as a substitute for salep flour. Konjac flour is commonly used in Japanese cuisine to produce a kind of gel called konnyaku, which can be made into noodles called shirataki. Side-by-side comparisons revealed that konjac dondurma matched the taste, chewiness, and stretchiness of salep dondurma. Testers familiar with dondurma as produced in Turkey confirmed that the stretchiness and chewiness of konjac dondurma resembled the Turkish original.

Keywords:   Turkish ice cream, texture, salep dondurma, konjac flour, chewy ice cream, fox testicle ice cream

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