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Italian Identity in the Kitchen, or Food and the Nation$
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Massimo Montanari

Print publication date: 2013

Print ISBN-13: 9780231160841

Published to Columbia Scholarship Online: November 2015

DOI: 10.7312/columbia/9780231160841.001.0001

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The Invention of Regional Cooking

The Invention of Regional Cooking

(p.65) The Invention of Regional Cooking
Italian Identity in the Kitchen, or Food and the Nation

Massimo Montanari

Columbia University Press

This chapter talks about regional cooking, a postmodern construction that brings together “disparate, fragmentary, unhomogenized elements from various localities of the same region and often from other regions.” The first cookbook to classify dishes according to regions was La nuova cucina delle specialità regionali by Vittorio Agnetti, which was published in Milan in 1909. Regional subdivision was established based on the first plan to inventory the Italian culinary heritage. “Regional” cooking is an invention that fulfils political, commercial, and tourist requirements. The regional image of Italian cooking has also been exported, and with the help of the food industry has been reinvigorated and reinforced abroad.

Keywords:   regional cooking, Vittorio Agnetti, regional subdivision, Italian culinary heritage

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